Progressive Router Tables

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
For the Pneumatic Router Table

BEFORE MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS,
DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM
ITS POWER AND AIR SUPPLIES.

TABLE OF CONTENTS


How to remove or replace the motor
1. Lift the tabletop approximately 180 degrees until it stops.
2. Remove the aluminum router plate by reversing the two hex head bolts that attach it to the frame.
3. Reverse the two Allen bolts that hold the motor in the plate.
4. Remove the router motor from the plate.
5. Replace the motor by reversing these steps.
  When installing a new router motor, height alignment is simplicity itself. The top of the motor (which is now the bottom, since the motor is upside-down) rests on the aluminum strut below it.
With the router motor in place, all that remains is to hook up your compressed air supply. That's a simple standard air connection (see Photo F, below).

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The Footswitch
The compressed air runs to a footswitch (shown at left in Photo B), which controls whether the router bit is above or below the table. Note that this photo was taken from the back of the footswitch housing. The front of the treadle (foot pedal) is currently in the down position, which means that the bit is lowered. Tip the back of the treadle (closest to you in this photo) down, which will raise the front of the pedal, and the bit will rise above the table. This means that, if you accidentally step on the switch, it will lower the bit.
 

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Safety
Shut-Off

Photo C at left shows another important safety aspect of the Progressive Router Table. If somebody forgets to disconnect the power to the router motor before changing bits, this interlock safety switch will automatically cut the power as soon as the tabletop is lifted.

One great advantage to the Progressive Router Table is that the motor is attached to the cabinet, not the tabletop (as it is with most other router tables). Changing bits is incredibly simple. Just lift the tabltop and everything is easily accessible. No more bending, fumbling or, well, cussing...

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Adjusting the
Lift Speed

The state-of-the-art pneumatic cylinder which raises and lowers the bit is very versatile. With simple fingertip controls, you can change the speed at which the router bit is raised, and you can independently change the speed at which it is lowered, too.

From a safety point of view, being able to slow the rate at which the bit emerges above the tabletop can be beneficial. It gives an operator a little extra time to react, in case something was left on the table which shouldn't have been.

Speeding up the downward movement can help speed up your production rate. (Rapid bit height changes using any one of the six positive stops already mean less downtime, too.) With the adjustable cylinder, a spinning bit can disappear below the tabletop very quickly, further reducing any chances of mishap.

 

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Setting the
Positive Stops

A large knob on the front of the cabinet door (see Photo E1 below) controls your selection of any one of the six positive stops built into the Progressive Router Table. The stops are screwed into a threaded hub behind the door, which is known as the positive stop block.

You can adjust each of these stops by loosening its hex nut, rotating the Allen bolt in or out, and then using the hex nut to lock it in position. The longer the stop, the less the router bit will rise.

This series of positive stops can dramatically reduce production time. For example, when using a straight bit to plow a deep dado or rabbet, the height of the bit can be adjusted up to six times to make incremental passes, without ever shutting down the motor or fiddling under the table with a wing nut on the router while trying to change the depth of cut.

When using profile bits, the depth stops can be set so that each pass addresses a different portion of the blade. (Think of the molding possibilities!)

And repeatability is built in. Set up the process and you can make six cuts over and over again without ever reaching for a wrench. The Progressive Router Table is ideally suited to jobs like hardwood flooring, picture frames and trim.

 

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  Adjusting the
Air Pressure

If the pressure in your shop lines is over 70 psi, you'll need to regulate it as it enters the Progressive Router Table. This is a simple procedure. Connect an air supply yo the air feed nipple on the side of the cabinet. Locate the control module inside the cabinet (connected to the nipple), and pull out the knob on the back end of the module. Rotate the knob until the dial reads 70 psi. A small valve on the other end of the module lets you periodically release excess moisture from the line.

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Adjusting
for Wear

Over the years, if your Progressive Router Table sees constant use on a daily basis, there's potential for wear in the bearings. Our engineering staff designed for this possibility by assembling each unit with a series of Allen bolts. If any play ever develops in the travel, you'll be able to compensate for it by opening the relevant Allen bolts, adjusting the parts and re-tightening the bolts.
 

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